There will be times that you will be frustrated and overwhelmed, but these times will be humbling experiences as you wash out from time to time. Hard work does pay off. Surfing is like meditation and even therapy for some as they paddle up to the wave and find themselves on top of a natural element, a wave. Some see it as an opportunity to do something outside of their comfort zones and conquer fears.
Surfing in the s, Corona del Mar, California. Here they are in no particular order: It feels like walking on water What other sport lets you glide across the water without any additional tools except the board under your feet? Surfing is addicting Call it an obsession, a compulsion or just a healthy quest. It looks cool This one may be a bit narcissistic, but if you also love watching other people surf, count yourself as a great appreciator of the art.
A cool Indonesian grom. It provides an adrenaline kick Like all active sports and nature-based activities, surfing gets those endorphins going, but few pursuits can match the adrenaline kick of catching a great wave. Surfing is challenging Nobody said surfing was easy.
It makes you feel alive Getting out on the waves is as close as it gets to becoming one with Mother Nature. Surfing is excellent exercise Looking for a fun way to get fit?
Surfing takes you to some of the most beautiful places in the world Find skiing too cold? Scenic Bali surf. Big wave surfer Jeff Rowley.
The surfer community Identification with a group can be a powerful feeling. Surfing is daring Depending on your skill level and what kind waves you like to ride, surfing can provide some serious thrills — if you dare.
You get to experience nature — first hand! Kelly Slater. Surfing has become a serious sport Since the s surfing has continued to grow as a sport, both professionally and in terms of amateur popularity.
Technology Advances in surfing tech have improved things like surfing equipment and monitoring the swell, allowing surfers to reach and ride waves like never before. Surfing is big business Once a lot of money can be made from something, corporate interests will exploit it. A way of physically, mentally and dare-i-say spiritually connecting with the natural world. While you may not necessarily feel completely at one with nature after your first surf lesson, enough time staring at horizons, feeling changes in wind direction, and navigating coast lines will definitely bring about a healthy dose of granola-birkenstock vibes.
It's no wonder so many surfers are involved in environmental stewardship such as the meet-up-clean-ups. Besides who wants to dodge plastic bags and used jimmies when they are out in the lineup. Meaning it doesn't matter who you are, how much money you have, who you love, or what happened at the office.
When you surf you learn to appreciate something greater than you - yet you are still connected. Surfing is a great opportunity to leave you baggage on shore, and involve yourself in a holistic release. One of the best bits of advice I got while learning to surf was 'drop your shit.
It worked. See how you feel after a little wave therapy. I'm sure there is a great cocktail of adrenaline and endorphins brewing after a good session.. Rooted in the traditional sport of Hawaiian royalty, and lesser known ancient history of Peruvian fisherman, surfing has blossomed into a global community with a multitude of subcultures.
Driving down the California coastline you may find a different vibe and style of surfing from one break to the next, different waves, different boards, different styles, different attitudes. Take that concept and extend it to the far flung regions of the globe, and less obvious surf communities, like Munich's urban river surfers, surfing in the Amazon or even surfing on the great lakes, you will find an endless amount of interesting communities full of surfers with unique character defects.
Surfing often precipitates travel. Waves are flat? Gas up the Dodge Caravan, hit google flights, it's time to find some waveage. Learning to surf is a great excuse to escape to some tropical paradise and get wet for a few weeks in Costa Rica or drive for the night to Montauk.
Start learning to surf and you may accidentally see the world. The uninitiated usually associate surfing with Hawaii and California, but as we hit on in point 5, the search for waves can definitely take you off the beaten path Anyone fancy a cold water surf trip to Iceland? Sometimes I don't even feel like I have been somewhere unless I have bobbed up and down in the local lineup.
Always apologise and make sure that everyone is okay if you make a mistake and cause a collision. Learning to read the ocean The ocean environment is a relaxing place, but it can also be dangerous.
You need to be able to identify the safe and dangerous spots. People getting caught in rips are the cause of most surf rescues. A rip is a strong current running out to sea. You need to know how to identify and avoid them. Where there is a rip you will see: darker colours in the ocean indicating deep water murky brownish water caused by sand being stirred from the bottom of the ocean smoother surface with much smaller waves, alongside white water waves breaking further out to sea on both sides of a rip debris floating out to sea.
Enjoy surfing but at the same time be aware of rips, as they can pull a weak or tired swimmer out into deep water and into trouble. Avoiding injury Here are some tips to follow before you hit the waves: Check the beach and make sure you are not alone — take a friend. Look for any restrictions on the beach and follow them. If you are a beginner, stick to beach breaks with a sandy beach. Make sure the top of your board is waxed up or has some form of grip and check your leg rope is in good condition.
Wear a leg rope tied to your surfboard if you are a beginner. Wear sunscreen, even on cloudy days. Wear what makes you comfortable, everyone has different tolerances for cold water.
If you would like some protection from the cold, wear a wetsuit, steamer, booties, gloves or head gear. Watch the area before you go in to see the best place to paddle out. Watch other people to see how they are getting on out in the surf.
Warm up before entering the water. Where to get help Local surf lifesaving club Surfing Australia Tel.
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