In the first two months after setting up your new aquarium you are likely to see your tank go through a lot of changes, most are natural but some changes may be signs of trouble. It's important to know which is which. It's going to take time for your new environment to find balance, but by knowing what to expect in the first 60 days you'll be able to help it along.
You have now gone past the first 60 days of owning an aquarium, we hope you continue with this calming and enjoyable hobby for many years to come. Now it's time to set up your next aquarium! Read More. Be patient! Let your aquarium "settle" for at least 48 hours before buying your first fish. This will give you time to make sure the temperature is set and make adjustments to decorations, etc. Unless you've already decided on what fish you want to put in your new aquarium, check the list of suggested beginner fish below or consult your local aquatic expert.
Your filter won't be able to process a lot of waste at first and this could cause harmful ammonia and nitrite to rise to unsafe levels. Occasionally the water in a new aquarium will turn cloudy after you introduce the first fish. This is caused by a bacterial "bloom" and will clear in a few days. These blooms are usually harmless to fish. Aqueon Water Clarifier will help speed up the process. Resist the desire to do a water change!
But bowls have an Achilles heel, in that get filthy very quickly and can only hold a single tropical fish. As such, a fishbowl will often require more frequent water changes and cleaning. Ideally, you should clean yours and replace 10 to 20 percent of the water once or twice every week.
Also, please note that a fishbowl is not ideal for keeping any tropical fish, including goldfish and betta, so if you have one, I highly recommend getting at least a gallon aquarium for the health and safety of your fish.
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This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Okay, thanks. Your subscription could not be saved. So the frequency of water changes should be based around the nitrate level in the water.
Never remove all of the tank water in a water change, and little and often is best. Set yourself a regime and stick to it. Remember that filter media should only be cleaned in old tank water so water change time is the perfect time to combine filter cleaning. The mucky water can then be used to water your plants. If that keeps the nitrate level low, stick to the regime or you can even replace slightly less.
If you dechlorinate properly and always bring water to the same temperature, there is actually no limit on how often you can change the water. Professional fish breeders may change water daily in order to remove excess food and encourage maximum growth. To do a water change you will need a syphon tube and a bucket. They are right in that, the schedule they are using works for them. All of them are also wrong for recommending a certain water change schedule.
A better method is to teach the person how to evaluate their water changing needs. First we need to realize that every tank will have a different water change schedule. This is because each tank will have a different bio-load. The amount of fish combined with how much food is fed is how you determine the bio-load.
It doesn't take much thought to realize that more fish combined with more food will result in more fish waste. Conversely, less fish and food would result in less waste.
We need to figure out how much waste we're producing. This can be accomplished by testing your water for nitrates. With a moderately heavy stocked tank, you will see your nitrates are climbing each week. Once we can track how our nitrates are rising, we can start to regulate it.
As an example, I am going to use an aquarium that produces 10ppm of nitrates per week.
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