The only other type of flute which is a bit of a hybrid is the hemholtz resonator globular flutes such as an ocarina. Joe B. Previous 1 2 Next. Login x Email Password Remember on this computer? Login or. Help Us Improve! Charity Jobs. Posted by bukowski ok so i was having a discussion with our guitarist about what a recorder is Flutist06 points.
Posted by Flutist06 Well technically a flute is an instrument that produces its sound from the flow of air against an edge. Leporello points. Posted by Leporello It's similar in Dutch. Bilbo points. Pickled points. Posted by Pickled Thanks for the word: fipple flute. Posted by Bilbo That web site is fairly detailed but it is difficult to find some of the specifics. Posted by bukowski thankyou people the argument is now settled and settled in my favor Flutie-Tootie 49 points.
Posted by Flutie-Tootie oops, too late, sorry! Posted by Flutie-Tootie i dont care nemore. To put it very simply: a stream of air enters a tube and is split when certain holes in the tube are open. In the recorder, the path of the air through a gap in the mouthpiece, the labium, is predetermined and fixed.
Flute players, however, must form this path themselves with their lips. This requires great control of the lips as well as of the respiratory system. In this respect it must be noted that the greatest difference in the handling of the two instruments is the airflow. The transverse flute and the recorder come from the same origin, but have developed in different directions over the centuries.
Both, however, have their justification as serious instruments with the potential of creating breathtaking music no pun intended. It is very worthwhile to discover what both of these instruments are capable of. Come to our shop and try them out! Interesting post! Thanks for the great information. This is really helpful. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Inside Gear Learn Inspire Entertain.
Flute vs. Joe on For now the block should be too high, and you should not be able to see the labium edge through the windway. Note : The author can accept no responsibility for accidents. Be patient and very careful. Don't work too fast. We have now reached the most important part of the job, getting the recorder to sound with the new block. We have to work on the top of the block, which should still be too high if you have followed the instructions correctly.
So there should not be much sound. There may not be any low notes, and the highest ones may only speak with difficulty. You must progressively take wood off the top until it is just lower than the edge of the labium. At the same time you will also have to adjust its slope, since Watch the following points:. These tips should enable you to make the instrument sound correctly. However, please bear in mind that you will have to adjust the block to the other parameters of your recorder to get the best results, so a block well suited to one instrument may not work so well on another.
You will have to do some experimentation. The following is a list of different techniques you can use to achieve this aim. Sometimes two of these are recommended for one particular job.
Just choose the one that suits you best. Each of these is described once and not necessarily in chronological order. They will probably be used several times before the voicing is finished. Each one has a number so that it can be found easily.
They are not necessarily in chronological order, so it is wise to study the whole text before doing any practical work. The measuring techniques are shown at the end. The different paragraphs are numbered to help find the right technique at the right time. Measuring methods are given at the end. Bear in mind that some of these methods need to be learned and practised on pieces of scrap wood before carrying out a delicate operation on your block. Further explanations on block adjustment can be found here.
Use the broaching or shaping tool or abrasive paper on a flat surface or a large file. Rub the top of the block to and fro on this lengthways, making sure that the whole length is in contact to avoid making the surface convex fig.
You may find that the tool works better in one direction than the other because of the grain. If your block is to be arched rock it gently from one side to the other between cuts, trying not to make facets but a progressive curve photo.
Pause often to measure your work and to check your progress, by replacing the block in the recorder. Work very slowly so as not to go too far.
As soon as you can see the edge of the labium you are close to your goal, so you must slow down then. You can also combine the two methods, starting with the tool and continuing with the abrasive paper when you are close to the level of the labium. Check this all the time.
If it happens, you can correct it with a scraper, or by scraping with a knife held about at right angles to the wood. The middle of the block will always be in contact with the paper longer than the ends, so more material will be removed here.
When you have got the right height and slope you can cut the beak shape to make it easier to play the recorder. The head joint must be firmly held in a vice for this. Put a piece of leather around the wood or against the jaws to avoid marking it. Be careful also not to break the end of the block while starting the cut. Work from the sides to the middle until the saw is well into the wood. You can't use it on the ends of the block, since it needs 1 or 2 mm to start biting.
The scraper should be held with both hands, whilst the wood is fixed in the vice. Needle files are good for this. Choose a fairly coarse one. Hold the file with both hands to get better control, and use the vice for holding the block. Scrape the wood with the blade held almost perpendicular to the surface. You can hold the block in one hand and work with the other for this or use the vice. Being smaller than the length of the block, it will remove more wood in the middle than on the ends, keeping the surface concave see photo below.
Fix the block at an angle in the vice as in fig. This is easier, but the result is often less clean. Fix the wood at an angle in the vice as in fig. A flat needle file is the right tool for this job. The instrument should now have a stronger sound. You will have to experiment to find the best angle and width. You can prepare a piece in advance and cut the strips as you need them.
If you can find it, you can use some horsetail or scrape grass to finish the polishing. The stem of this plant contains fin crystals of silicium that are abrasive. If your block is conical you will have to take this into account. Once the beak has been cut you cannot measure the height directly at the windway entrance. You must then take measurement half way down and double the difference.
The ruler should only touch the wood at both ends. You will also be able to see if the hollow is regular. The high spots will be made visible by the pencil markings. Keep the ruler straight in the middle, and parallel to the edges on the sides.
Only the ends will be marked when the concavity is correct. This will give you a gauge that you can apply across the top looking towards a source of light. Any defects will be visible. The amount of light visible under the labium will give you this information.
The height must be the same on both sides. You can fill these gaps with wax. Just warm a small piece of beeswax and melt it into the places where it does not fit. Then scrape away the surplus. For those unfamiliar with tools and how to sharpen and use them, there are many books on the subject that they could profitably read before making their first block.
Making a block is a very interesting experience. On a soprano recorder, playing a simple melody with a narrow range in a pitch range such as C major or F major presents no particular issue with a German style recorder, but performing a piece with a wider range or accidentals sharps and flats is more difficult. Also, as models other than the soprano are mostly made in the Baroque style, if fingering is learned on a German-style soprano model, it cannot be applied on a Baroque-style instrument.
For consistency throughout, from elementary school through to lifelong learning, using a Baroque-style instrument is recommended. Musical Instrument Guide.
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